Usually, the price for irrigation opening is $100 + tax. The price can vary if the system is commercial or big residential.
GET IT NOWBasically, the price for winterization is $100 + tax. The cost can vary if the system is commercial or big residential.
GET IT NOWPrices start at $550 per zone. We use Hunter and Rain Bird materials. 5-year warranty. Parts and labor are included.
GET IT NOWLED fixtures start from $250 due to long lifespan and reduced maintenance costs. Parts & labour are included.
GET IT NOWResidential sod averages $1.10–$3.50 per sq.ft. Commercial starts at $0.75. Labour is included.
GET IT NOWFrench drainage installation cost ranges $25–$40 per foot depending on complexity. Parts and labor are included.
GET IT NOWFull inspection, diagnostics, pressure testing, and system adjustments.
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When one sprinkler zone does not turn on, the issue is usually isolated to the timer output, field wire, solenoid, or zone valve.
If one sprinkler zone is not turning on but other zones work, the problem is usually not the main water supply. The most certain answer is that the fault is isolated to that zone’s programming, wire, solenoid, or valve. Start with the timer: the zone may have zero run time, be assigned to the wrong program, or be skipped by schedule settings. If programming is correct, test the electrical side. A working controller should send about 24 volts AC to the zone wire when that station runs. If power reaches the valve and it still does not open, the solenoid or valve is the likely failure.
| Question | Certain Answer |
|---|---|
| Most likely cause | Bad solenoid, cut zone wire, loose common wire, or a stuck valve. |
| Voltage fact | Most residential irrigation valves use 24 VAC from the controller to energize the solenoid. |
| Main water issue? | Usually no, because other zones would normally fail too if the supply were off. |
| Best next step | Run the zone manually, test voltage at the timer, then test voltage at the valve box. |
The zone may be skipped, disabled, set to zero minutes, or assigned to the wrong program.
A failed solenoid cannot open the valve even when the controller sends power.
Landscape work, planting, edging, lighting, grading, or animals can damage low-voltage irrigation wire.
Debris, pressure issues, or internal valve damage can stop the valve from opening.
A clean diagnostic starts at the controller. Run the zone manually, check voltage at the terminal, then test at the valve. If power leaves the controller but does not reach the valve, the wire path is suspect. If power reaches the valve but it does not open, the solenoid or valve is suspect.
Do not start digging randomly. Wire tracing and valve locating can reduce damage to the lawn and find the problem faster.
Additional factual note: A single dead zone is common after planting, fence work, landscape lighting, driveway edging, grading, or aeration because low-voltage irrigation wire can be cut underground.
Additional factual note: Manual valve opening is a useful test. If the zone waters when opened manually, water flow exists and the problem is more likely electrical. If it does not water manually, inspect the valve and piping.
That usually means the issue is with that zone's wire, solenoid, valve, or programming.
Yes. A failed solenoid is one of the most common reasons one zone will not turn on.
Yes, if only that zone wire is cut. A common wire cut can affect multiple zones.
Not first. Test the zone terminal before assuming the controller is bad.
Need help with sprinkler valves, heads, timers, wiring, rain sensors, or low-pressure zones in Toronto or the GTA? A proper diagnosis can prevent wasted water, lawn damage, and repeat repairs.
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